Indian summer cooking solves two problems at once: nobody wants to eat heavily, and nobody wants to stand over a flame for an hour. This week is built around dishes that are quick to cook and easy to digest — curd rice, khichdi, thin dals, gourd sabzis and steamed tiffin rather than fried food and slow gravies.
Curd and buttermilk appear every day, in the food and beside it. The gourds — lauki, torai, tinda — are the summer vegetables that hold water, and raw mango does the souring where tamarind would feel heavy. Chilli is used sparingly, and mint and coriander do more of the flavouring than dry masala.
Mango season is the one indulgence: Sunday breakfast is aam ras with puri, which is how the season is supposed to be observed. Quantities are for a family of four.